Bulungan – Dayak Longhouses and Rainforest on the Kayan River
Bulungan Regency lies in North Kalimantan province in northern Borneo, across the Kayan River watershed. The regional capital, Tanjung Selor, sits at the mouth of the Kayan River. Bulungan is the legacy of the former Bulungan Sultanate – today it serves as the gateway to Kayan Mentarang National Park and the living culture of Dayak communities.
Attractions and Activities
Kayan Mentarang National Park is one of Borneo's largest protected areas (1.35 million hectares): pristine rainforest home to rhinoceros hornbills, Bornean clouded leopards and the rare Mueller's hawk-eagle. Organised expeditions run into the park interior. Boat trips on the Kayan River lead to traditional Dayak longhouses (lamin), where carved pillars and communal living provide an authentic experience. In Tanjung Selor, the Bulungan Sultanate Palace Museum (Istana Bulungan) displays the sultanate's crowns, weapons and textiles. Weight Waterfall (Air Terjun Weight) is the area's most popular natural attraction.
Culture and Cuisine
The Dayak Kayan and Kenyah tribes carry the region's indigenous culture – earlobe stretching, tattooing and traditional dances remain living traditions. Malay fishing communities live along the coast. Local cuisine features amplang (fish crackers), nasi kuning (yellow spiced rice), and ayam cincane (spicy chicken).
Public Safety
Bulungan is fundamentally safe. You can move around Tanjung Selor at night without concern. Only visit the national park and longhouses with a local guide – the jungle is dense and navigation is difficult. Boating on the Kayan River is safe with reliable operators, but watch for flooding during the rainy season. Medical care is basic; the nearest more advanced hospital is in Tarakan city (reachable by ferry).
Practical Information
From Tarakan Juwata Airport, Tanjung Selor is reachable by ferry or speedboat (approx. 2–3 hours). Direct flights from Balikpapan and Jakarta also serve Tanjung Selor's small airport. The best time to visit is May to September. Accommodation: simple guesthouses in Tanjung Selor.