Kapuas Hulu – The Heart of the World: Rainforests and Dayak Longhouses in Borneo's Interior
Kapuas Hulu Regency lies in the easternmost part of West Kalimantan province, on the upper reaches of the Kapuas River, bordering Malaysian Sarawak. The regional capital is Putussibau. Kapuas Hulu represents the heart of Borneo: two vast national parks (Betung Kerihun and Danau Sentarum), Dayak Iban and Embaloh longhouses, and one of the world's richest rainforests make it special.
Attractions and Activities
Betung Kerihun National Park is one of Borneo's largest pristine rainforests – habitat of orangutans, Bornean clouded leopards, hornbills and rare orchids. Danau Sentarum National Park (Sentarum Lake) is a wetland lake system – the lake level changes seasonally, and aquatic wildlife is extraordinarily rich. Dayak Iban and Embaloh longhouse (rumah betang) villages can be visited – traditional ceremonies, weaving and carving are living traditions. Boat tours on the upper Kapuas River.
Culture and Cuisine
Dayak Iban culture is characterised by the headhunting past's memory and longhouse community life – the gawai Dayak festival (harvest celebration) is the biggest cultural event. Dayak Embaloh communities also live in longhouses. Cuisine is Bornean: pansuh (meat and vegetables cooked in bamboo), wadi (fermented fish), and tuak (palm wine) are local flavours.
Public Safety
Kapuas Hulu is safe but extremely remote. Do not enter national parks without a local guide. River transport is the only option in many places – use reliable boat operators. Medical care is very limited; basic hospital in Putussibau, Pontianak (approx. 1 hour by flight) has the nearest more advanced hospital.
Practical Information
Putussibau Pangsuma Airport receives flights from Pontianak (approx. 1 hour). From Pontianak by car/bus, approximately 16–20 hours. The best time to visit is May to September. Accommodation: simple guesthouses in Putussibau.