Mahakam Hulu – The Upper Mahakam River and Dayak Communities
Mahakam Hulu Regency lies in the innermost part of East Kalimantan province, on the upper reaches of the Mahakam River. Its capital is Long Bagun. The region is one of Kalimantan’s most isolated and pristine areas, home to Dayak Bahau and Dayak Kenyah communities.
Attractions and Activities
Multi-day boat expeditions can be arranged on the upper Mahakam River: travelling upstream from Samarinda, the river becomes increasingly wild – rapids, gorges, pristine rainforest. Dayak Bahau and Kenyah villages live in traditional longhouses: carved totem poles, ceremonies. Proximity to Kayan Mentarang National Park (on the North Kalimantan border) offers biodiversity. Tiong Ohang and Long Apari are remote Dayak settlements offering authentic cultural experiences.
Culture and Cuisine
Dayak Bahau and Kenyah culture is defining: the longhouse (lamin) communal house, the mandau (Dayak sword), the hudoq dance are part of cultural life. Cuisine is Dayak: lemang (rice cooked in bamboo), pansoh (meat cooked in bamboo), freshwater fish from the Mahakam.
Public Safety
Mahakam Hulu is an isolated and hard-to-reach region. Travel only with a local guide. Infrastructure is minimal. Medical care: puskesmas in Long Bagun; Samarinda (approx. 3 days by boat) is the nearest hospital.
Practical Information
MAF or Susi Air flights to Long Bagun small airstrip from Samarinda (limited, weather-dependent). From Samarinda, 3–5 days by boat. The best time to visit is May to September. Accommodation: local hospitality in longhouses.