Boven Digoel – Papua's Deep Rainforest Along the Digoel River
Boven Digoel Regency lies in southern Papua near the Arafura Sea, across the vast watershed of the Digoel River. The regional capital, Tanah Merah, became known during the Dutch colonial era as a political exile camp. Today Boven Digoel is one of Indonesia's most remote and least-developed regions – and one of the last refuges of pristine rainforest and ancient Papuan culture.
Attractions and Activities
The Digoel River is the region's main highway: long boat trips along its banks reveal traditional Papuan villages, dense mangrove zones and jungle. The surrounding rainforest is among the world's richest in biodiversity – birds of paradise, cassowaries and crowned pigeons can be spotted. In Tanah Merah, the Boven Digoel Historical Memorial preserves remnants of the Dutch colonial internment camp where Mohammad Hatta (Indonesia's future vice president) and other independence leaders were imprisoned. Local Papuan communities offer sago-processing demonstrations and traditional archery for curious visitors.
Culture and Cuisine
The region's indigenous Papuan tribes (Muyu, Mandobo, Auyu) maintain traditional lifestyles. Sago palm is the staple food, consumed as papeda (sago starch porridge) with fish sauce. Local art finds expression in woodcarving and body painting. Community ceremonies (sing-sing) with dance and chanting are central social events.
Public Safety
Boven Digoel is a remote, isolated region. Tanah Merah town is fundamentally safe, but infrastructure is undeveloped. Jungle expeditions must only be undertaken with local guides – for navigation and because of wildlife (crocodiles in the river). Travelling alone between villages is not recommended; always move with local company. Healthcare is very limited: the nearest serious hospital is in Merauke, reachable by air or a long boat journey. Malaria prophylaxis is strongly recommended.
Practical Information
Tanah Merah's small airstrip receives flights from Jayapura and Merauke (small propeller planes, weather-dependent). Within the region, transport is by boat on the Digoel River or on foot – paved roads are virtually non-existent. The best time to visit is the drier season from May to October. Accommodation: a few basic guesthouses (losmen) in Tanah Merah. Bring sufficient cash as ATMs are scarce.